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Lima, located on the central western coast, is large, noisy, polluted
and shrouded in a misty coastal fog for much of the year. There is a
sunny period, December through April, when many coast and highland
people go to the beach. Despite the unimpressive landscape; the friendly
people, important historical sites, quality museums, and variety of
dining and entertainment establishments make Lima a very interesting
place to visit.
Festivities can be explored year-round in Lima. The Lord of the Miracles
(Senor de los Milagros), the patron saint of Lima, is celebrated in
October with a series of street parades that include a life-size replica
of Jesus carried on an elaborate adorned altar. The faithful followers
are adorned in purple robes and the entire reverent, yet festive,
occasion is accompanied by music, singing, the ringing of ceremonial
bells and the burning of incense. October is also the month when the
bullfighting season begins. The best bullfighters of the world come to
compete for the Escapulario de Oro (the gold epaulet) in the Plaza de
Acho ring. Other celebrations throughout the year include a wine harvest
festival in March, and the Feria del Pacifico international fair in
November.
The Plaza de Armas is a great starting point for exploring Lima. Stand
in the middle of this spacious and handsome square, by the 17th-centruy
bronze fountain, and you are at the historic heart of the city. On the
north side is the Government Palace, which was completed in 1938, and
suffers from the past of Peru's dictators of the time for grandiose
French baroque. On weekdays at 12:45 pm, you can see the changing of the
guard. The eastern side of the square is dominated by the cathedral,
which was reconstructed many times due to earthquakes. Inside, the
cathedral is large and unusually austere. Opposite the cathedral is the
Municiplidad de Lima, or town hall. The pleasant interior includes a
fine library. Next to it on the square is the headquarters of the Club
de la Union, a lunchtime mixture of politicians and professionals.
Lima has many choices of museums to visit. The Museum of Anthropology
and Archaeology in the Plaza Bolivar is one of the most interesting
museums in South America, with a superb collection of pottery and
textiles from all the main cultures of ancient Peru. The Museum of the
Republic, contains exhibits from the colonial and independence periods.
The National Museum, opened in 1990, in a neo-brutalist mausoleum on Av
Javier Prado Oeste in San Borja. The museum contains impressive mock-ups
of pre-Columbian archaeological sites, and an ingenious replica of the
Chavin stela, a massive carved stone idol. The Gold Museum contains a
private collection with some fine items and artifacts. The Museum of the
Inquisition, next to the Congress in the city center, is in the building
where generations of supposed heretics were tortured and tied. The
stocks in the underground dungeons and torture chambers are originals.
The business district of San Isidro and Miraflores are the main areas
for shopping, restaurants, cafes and theatres. At the top end of Av.
Larco is the Parque Kennedy, where artists sell paintings during the
weekend. Next to the Pacifico Cinima is the Café Haiti, a prime spot for
people-watching. Around the corner in Ricardo Palma, is the more
upmarket Vivaldi Café. Walking down Diagonal you will find firstly great
imported export-quality Peruvian coffe in the highly trendy Café Café
and a little further on is a side street crammed with pizzerias with
open-air tables. A cobbled road leads down a gully to the Costa Verde,
as the sweep of beaches is called.
Also see in Lima
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